哈佛提素 - 自助素食餐廳
香港的芸芸素食店中,論食物質素,有機、天然,我會選 Life Cafe,有海外茹素朋友來港,那是首選宴客之地。但那是高檔路線,且西洋風格,不是天天去的地方。老闆Bobsy是Hippie,隨意,友善;但某些店員,態度之差,可算是SoHo少見,跟其價格的落差很大。
至於功德林,我仍然回味的是十多年前,未搬到怡和街,尚在銅鑼灣某後街的年代,一家簡單的上海小店,服務、食物都親切,遠較現在好。今日的功德林,是大店了,高憎和尚,達官貴人,娛樂名媛,社團叔伯,皆常可見,除了尖沙咀店的無敵維港景色外,較高級的場面外,已無吸引力。
一般傳統齋舖,我是非常厭惡,跟一般酒樓無異。例如,就我公司所在的蘇杭街的乜乜苑,四年多來,包括我以前完全茹素的日子,我去過不三、五次。油膩、味精,極度怠慢不經意的店員,都不缺,還有最要命的,是廚房入口就在正門旁邊,同樣對著大街,卻常見廚房大哥坐在門口煲煙,難頂萬分!
近月,西港城側開了一家叫《哈佛提素》Harvester本來可說是沒甚麼特別的,但甚得中上環白領歡心。每天中午,採自助形式,十多款菜,按重量計,吃多少,付多少,另湯、飯、粥或糖水任吃,一餐約廿八至五十元左右。他們標榜無添加 -- 其實不儘然,因為每天的十多款菜中,總有一、二道是素肉為主的,素肉那會不放味精?此外,自助餐食物,有時保溫不足,愛吃燙熱食物的朋友會感到不是味兒。然而,照顧上班族的,是他們每日湯水、紅白米飯、清粥,是任食的,但質素絕不差,炎炎夏日,那碗陳皮十足的白粥,非常消暑。總體上的特點,是消失了傳統齋舖的油膩、茨汁、味精、濃粧艷粖的齋滷味、懶閒老伙計;換上的,是新鮮蔬菜為主,友善的服務,簡單的裝修,味道是清而不淡。論天然,當然比不上Life或是Soland,是可以接受吧,接近一般注重健康的上班族的要求,在naturalness, quality中,平衡了mass appeal, affordability。
Harvester的老闆,叫Howard Ling,是美國畢業營養師,專長食物生產科技方面,曾任職雀巢,後攻讀中大工管碩士,是MBA校友會的活躍分子。更因MBA課程的陳志輝教授的介紹,認識了陳教授當年的同學Victor 蔡先生,而合辦了此哈佛提素。我怎樣認識Howard,就是某天我與一群台灣朋友在那裡吃飯時,Howard走過來自我介紹而認識,後發現大家都是中大人,志趣相近,也就談得投緣。
對哈佛提素的良好印像,一是Howard的君子謙謙外,二是食物,其實最重要的,是他帶回很多舊日曾任職的原康堂的美好回憶。原康堂1995年由趙來發、王謹菱創辦,位處上環先施27樓 (電梯25字再走兩層!),可算是香港新紀元的文化沙龍之地,集活動中心、素食餐廳、健康食品店、治療中心於一身。原康堂的三年歷史中,我有緣在那裡工作了後兩年,1996-98,認識了不少前輩、好朋友。今見Howard之辦餐廳,搞民間智慧講座與課程,藉此廣結良朋,甚樂。再見店經理阿堂先生招呼客人之投入用心,竟看見當年自己的影子。

Speaking of Life Cafe, don’t you just love their substandard service?! I used to go there few times a week for lunch, tea and dinner. I stopped going because…
Several months ago, I went there with my boyfriend for dinner. While we were enjoying our food, I suddenly found a piece of hard-to-chew thing in my mouth…and I thought, could this be a piece of bone…how could this be…it’s a vegetarian restaurant afterall…so I carefully spooned the piece of “thing” out of my mouth…and guess what?! It’s a piece of chipped dishware…it’s the size of half a peanut.
After a bit of looking into the “thing”, I found out it actually matched with the serving plate that they use in the restaurant! Of course, duh!!! Did I think it’s from my mother’s kitchen?! So I politely asked the Manager to get Bobsy (one of the owners), who happened to be there that particular evening, but he was busy with the live band on the rooftop and so the Manager asked what she could do for me. I simply told her what happened. And she was like, okay, whatever, and offered me a desert as a consolation prize for hitting the jackpot! Hey…there’s more to her attitude.
I went there with a girlfriend for lunch few weeks later. And here’s a lady taking us to our table and it suddenly dawned on me that she WAS the Manager when I hit the jackpot few weeks ago. Just wanting to say hi to her, and she was like who in the world you are…I politely asked if she was the ONLY manager there…she said yes. And so I asked if she recalled me and the chipped piece of dishware…in her disgruntled face, she said, What?! Here?! Was it here or somewhere else?!…Are you sure it was here in this restaurant?!…In Life Cafe here?! (Guys, you’ve got to add a fair bit of attitude into her responses to get the juice of the lines.)
I was thoroughly embarrased but luckily my girlfriend was very supportive of my outspokeness which I was and still am very grateful for it. After the Manager walked away, I told my girlfriend what happened during my last visit there.
In the course of our lunch, one waitress came and asked me to see the Chef before leaving. It indeed reminded of me of seeing the Principal after school because of something real bad I’d done. And I thought okay, whatever…having experienced the attitude of the Manager, I must admit I was real skeptical as to what was coming next.
The Chef in fact came to our table promptly after we finished our mains…very good timing, dude. He’s an easygoing, friendly Aussie dude knowing how to respect one another. First apologized for the “chip” and asked me to tell him the nitty gritty of what happened. In our conversation, I found out that the incident was simply went unreported to him…because the kitchen keeps a log book, for to write off any chipped or broken dishes or whatever in the kitchen.
I must say I left Life Cafe happily that afternoon because the Chef handled the whole situation beautifully with SINCERITY. Sadly I have not gone back since…I feel that unless the quality of their service is enhanced, just like every one else, I deserve to be treated fairly and nicely.
Hello my name is mandy
I would like to introduce another good vegetarian restaurant which is located at Wan Chai.
Restaurant Website : http://www.worldpeacecafe.hk/index.html
It is also a western Style restaurant. The place is calm and warm. The food is delicious although little bit expensive. All the staffs are volunteers!
Besides, it provides ” Meditation with Lunch” too~
I am happy there are more and more western style vegetarian restaurants in HK.
If I have chance, I hope I can try “Life Cafe” and “哈佛提素” too~
OvO
Hello Mandy,
天下太平這地方,我知道,確是好地方。也認識見道法師,有不少朋友是他學生。
但那裡晚上沒有開放,且在灣仔,我故較少前往。
謝謝你在介紹這個好地方。
Arden